Bringing in the New Year!

Courtesy of Laura Hammett

Ohrid, Macedonia is a small town located on the eastern side of Lake Ohrid. The town looks out over the beautiful lake and once can slightly see Pogradec, Albania on the opposite side of the lake and across the boarder. The town of Ohrid is an official UNESCO heritage site. Due to the protection of UNESCO, the town looks much like it did during the Ottoman rule. The houses are made of white stone, the streets are composed of grayish and black rocks, and the streets are all very narrow windy, and difficult to navigate.

Although Ohrid is just across the boarder from Albania, it is obviously more developed than it's close neighbor. While Albania still struggles with power outages, lack of central heating, and little enforcement and regulation of laws, Macedonia has already worked out all of those issues. The country is much cleaner, trees are in abundance, and the culture seems more civilized. 

What is normal and expected in Albania is rude and embarrassing in Macedonia. People in Albania constantly stare at strangers for long periods of time. This is an everyday occurrence and nothing is thought of it. Many Albanians also speak in loud and harsh sounding tones. Most of the time these people are just speaking normally, and are not upset at all. While in Macedonia I noticed that the Albanian tourists stuck out like sore thumbs. At one meal there was an older man speaking Albanian to the other two people at his table. He spoke in a loud and rude tone of voice to both the waiter and the others he was with. It was clear that the entire restaurant was perturbed by his lack of consideration for the rest of the people around him.

Another example was something I did while in Macedonia. Unfortunately I have picked up this habit while over here and desperately need to work on reverting back to the American culture does and don'ts. Kim and I went to have coffee in one of the coffee bars along the main street one afternoon. I ordered a hot chocolate (which in this part of the world comes out more like a thick chocolate pudding). When my hot chocolate came out I was surprised of the consistency. Therefore, when I heard the men at the table behind me order one cocoa and one hot chocolate, I was anxious to see what would arrive The waitress served the men and quickly walked away. About a minuet after the men had received their drinks Kim reprimanded me for blatantly staring at the table next to us. I was completely unaware of how long I had been staring at those men. When Kim pointed out what I was doing I became very embarrassed and turned bright red.

Courtesy of Kim Lancaster

New Years Eve was spent at a bar located right on the lake. Adam brought along some Golden Eagle energy drinks from Albania. He was adamant that we all drink them before we headed out to the bar. By the time we left our little apartment I was definitely energized! The night was super fun. Lots of dancing and lots of Serbs. It was like we had entered little Serbia upon walking through the doors of the bar. We circle danced with a few other patrons, talked up our odd love of Albania, and laughed through it all. What a great way to start off 2012!

Dancer is One of Santa's Reindeer

Christmas was filled with laughter, love and lots of sweets this year! I spent Christmas Eve and Christmas Day with eight other PCVs in Lezhe, a town about an hour north of Tirana. Our plans included a big Christmas Eve dinner, games, mulled wine, and the promise of a blazing fire. 

Courtesy of Laura Hammett

Christmas Eve was one of the best days I have had in Albania. The morning and early afternoon was occupied by a football game, which was tons of fun and included a good amount of humorous trash talking. After the big game we all went out for an apres-game celebratory beer and lunch. Traditional Albanian food for lunch alongside Albanian brewed beer. I couldn't have asked for a better afternoon. 

The rest of the day was spent playing cards, preparing dinner, and finishing up gifts. Eggnog was made by Laura and served during our many rounds of cards. Prior to Christmas Eve, I had never tasted eggnog before. I enjoyed it, but it was super sweet. Once glass was enough for me. Card players switched in and out as different aspects of Christmas dinner were being prepared. For the main course there was a marinated beef loin, which was absolutely delicious! Along with the beef there was a Canadian dish made by John and Adam that consisted of fried potatoes served under thick gravy and bacon. There was also a salad to balance out all the heavy food items. The meal took quite a while to prepare and cook so while we were waiting, we played a game by the name of Chardee MacDennis. 

Chardee MacDennis is a game that was first introduced to us by the television show It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia. The game consists of 3 rounds, trivia/puzzles, physical challenge, and mental stamina, and is played in teams. Because there was an equal number of PCVs from the Northern, Central, and Southern areas of Albania, that was how we broke up into teams. Obviously I was on Team South. The trivia questions were challenging, yet answerable, the physical challenges were rediculous, painful, and accomplishable, and the mental stamina exercises were just down right self-confidence breaking. The game was a success! The trivia card that gave everyone a difficult time was the one that stated: "Name all of Santa's reindeer and his wife". Of course everyone knew Mrs. Claus, but the number of reindeer completely stumped the answering team. Does he have 8 or 9 reindeer?

Courtesy of Kim Lancaster

Now, as children we were all read the poem The Night Before Christmas and at some point in our lives we were able to perfectly recite it. However, as we have gotten older only remnients from the poem can be remembered. For me, I can recall the beginning of the poem, but once the stockings are hung and the hope of St. Nick will soon be there comes along, it's pretty much down hill from there. I know there is the part, "sugarplum fairs danced in their head" and "on dasher, on donner, on comet and cupid". But are those the actual words and in the right order? I can not tell you for sure. Plus when I try to recite the reindeer portion in the poem I end up repeating the same reindeer names. 

Luckily, I grew up with a set of Santa's Reindeer ornaments that decorated our family Christmas tree every year, so I can name all the reindeer. (A huge source of pride. How many other things can a brag about with this group of PCVs?) However, my team was not asked the question, it was a trivia question for the Central team. Long story short. They couldn't name them all and they ended up making up one of the names. A huge debate began about the name of that last reindeer. Many of the PCVs tried to recite the poem, but failing, while others were positive they knew the name of the last reindeer. 

The food, company, and activities that accompanied the Christmas holiday this year was wonderful. Everyone seemed to have a good time and we definitely ate, drank, and were merry. I leave you with a poem until the next holiday season.

The Night Before Christmas

Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the house

Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse.

The stockings were hung by the chimney with care,

In hopes that St. Nicholas soon would be there.

The children were nestled all snug in their beds,

While visions of sugar-plums danced in their heads.

And mamma in her 'kerchief, and I in my cap,

Had just settled down for a long winter's nap.

When out on the lawn arouse such a clatter,

I spring from the bed to see what was the matter.

Away to the window I flew like a flash,

Tore open the shutters and threw up the sash.

The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow

Gave the lustre of mid-day to objects below.

When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,

But a minaiture sleigh, and eight tinny reindeer.

While a little old drive, so lively and quick,

I knew in a moment it must be St. Nick.

More rapid than eagles his coursers they came,

And he whistled, and shouted, and called them by name.

"Now Dasher! now, Dancer! now Prancer and Vixen

On, Comet! On, Cupid! On, Donner and Blitzen!

To the top of the porch! To the top of the wall!

Now dash away! Dash away! Dash away all!

...

He sprang to his sleigh, to his team gave a whistle,

And away they all flew like the down of a thistle.

But I heard him exclaim, 'ere he drove out of sight,

"Happy Christmas to all, and to all a good-night!"

Preparation of the Thanksgiving Turkey

Only 27 Months?

I know I have not been very vigilant with my blog posts this fall. Things have been crazy busy! It's pretty unbelievable how much more productive I feel during my second year here in Albania than I did in my first. Now that I know the language, have a few projects going on, and know how the people in Himare 'work' I can get so much more done in a shorter amount of time. It seems as though 27 months is not nearly long enough for a Peace Corps Volunteer to accomplish as much as one would like.

Most of the first year was spent getting to know Albanian culture and language, figuring out how to work within my community, discovering the needs of my community and Albania as a whole, and learning how to efficiently get projects done. Getting comfortable and known and respected in my community is a huge step toward becoming successful in one's community. Now, in my second year, is when I have begun to get my 'hands dirty.' I am finally seeing and doing the actual work that I have tirelessly prepared for. No longer do I spend most of my time lobbying for funding and convincing people that yes, this project is definitely feasible.

Peace Corps is a roller coaster of emotions, workload, feelings, and self confidence. I have hit high points and I have definitely experienced the low points. These past couple of months have to be one of the highest points I have had since in Albania. Right now I feel accomplished, productive, and happy. (These feelings will definitely change multiple times before my close of service in May.) For me, these high points are what Peace Corps is all about. Yes, I am here to help out citizens of another country, but I am also here to experience living and working in a completely different environment.

There is no better feeling than walking down the street in Himare and really feeling as though I am truly part of this community and that I belong here.

Northern Trek - Home to Lord Voldemort

July 2011

The far north of Albania had been off-limits for Peace Corps Volunteers until May of this year. So, needless to say, it had been somewhat of an interest and mystery to us PCVs. We had all heard how beautiful, clean, undeveloped, and, of course, how Lord Voldemort had lived here during his years in exile, but none of us had seen or experienced this part of Albania.

Naturally, a group of us planned a multi-day hike and camping trip. We began in a tiny, tiny town that you cannot reach during the winter because of the large amount of snowfall in that area of the country, called Valbona. From there we hike up and over a peak in the Albanian Alps to another small town, named Theth.

Theth is known as one of the last places in Albanian where blood feuds have lasted. The Kulla, a tower where those who committed murder went due to the protection is granted for the first 30 days after the committed crime, is still in Theth and one can still enter to see and learn about the process of the town's council of elders when a blood feud was in full swing.

For those of you who don't really know much about blood feuds, it follows a code of law called the Kanun. The Kanun includes how to treat guests, ritual funerals, and, of course, blood feud customs. If a man in your family killed someone in my family, my family would then go after that man in your family, then your family would come after the man in my family who first murdered someone in my family, and so on. This cycle will continue until there is no one left or the feud can be terminated by a 'sworn virgin.'

A 'sworn virgin' is a woman who takes on the role of a man by becoming the head of the house, does not have children, cuts her hair short, and usually wears male clothing. By doing this the woman is ending her family's lineage and eliminating the possibility for another male to be born. This is really the only way blood feuds between families end. If you are interested in learning more on this subject, there is a fictional book, Broken April, by Ismail Kadare that is strictly about Albania's blood feuds. There is so much more about this old tradition, but what I have mentioned above are the basic concepts.

The other reason why visiting Theth is at the top of many PCVs lists is because of it's natural beauty, numerous outdoor activities that can be pursued in this area, and the lack of modern luxuries. Electric wiring were just installed into the Theth valley less than a year ago. Theth is located in a valley completely surrounded by the Albanian Alps, therefore it is only possible to get there during the summer months.

Theth is definitely one of the most beautiful places in Albania. I can see why Lord Voldemort chose to live there during his several years in exile from Great Britain.

Camping: Albanian Style

June 2011

There is a town smack in the middle of Albania, about an hour south of Elbasan by the name of Gramsh. Gramsh is much smaller than Elbasan, but not nearly as

small as the villages around Elbasan where training took place. I have found that it is one of the most enjoyable places to visit in Albania. There really isn't anything special about it, but it just feels comfortable. I think this has to do with the fact that the regional culture, language dialect, and geography is much like the villages where we spent our first three months in Albania and got our first taste of true Albanian life.

Two volunteers from my group were placed in Gramsh. It seems like they have really become part of their community and are making an impact in Gramsh. Not only have they become acquainted with the town and community members, but they have also explored the area around their site. While exploring they came across an amazing camping site.

At the beginning of June, a group of volunteers, myself, and a few Albanian friends went on a camping trip in Sotire, a small village outside of Gramsh. The hike was pleasant and beautiful. The trail we took crisscrossed back and forth over a small creek. Since we did this hike at the beginning of the summer before it got too hot, the hillsides were covered in an array of green hues and the wildflowers were in bloom. Eventually, we made it to a large, flat, grassy mesa. This field was where we camped. At the campsite there were a few cherry trees. The cherries were a bright yellow and red color and were a refreshing afternoon snack after our long hike and activities around the camp area.

By following a trail that ran alongside a creek we had worked our way back into a small canyon-like area. The field in which we camped on was atop one side of the canyon while the opposite side of the canyon a large waterfall was flowing from the facing canyon wall. The water looked to be coming directly from the rocks in the wall of the canyon. At the bottom of the canyon was a small swimming hole where the waterfall came to rest. Because it was so early in the summer, the water was absolutely freezing, but it sure felt good after our long hike in.

Ok, this is where the story gets interesting. Hiking is not a common hobby or pastime for most Albanians. So the Albanians who came with us were not the most seasoned in the idea and etiquette of camping. While the majority of the group first set off on the hike to the waterfall, the Albanians along with a couple accommodating PCVs stayed behind to wait for the donkeys. Yes, I do mean donkeys. While all the Americans carried their small amount of belongings on their backs, the Albanians rented and loaded up two donkeys to carry their items to the campsite. It is also important to understand that the entire hike took only 2 hrs and we were only staying for one night. The PCVs packed sleeping bags, tents, food for dinner, headlamps, and matches. The Albanians, on the other hand, brought along a generator, 2 cans of gas, large speakers, a computer, extension cord, and, best of all, a lightbulb.

That night, after us PCVs started a fire and began to cook dinner, the Albanians set up with gear and basically created a club out in the middle of this field. The lightbulb had been lit by the generator and was allowing the Albanians to run their music and large speakers while making it possible for them to circle dance to the music late into the night.

It was a rare, unexpected, entertaining site, but unfortunately we were not able to listen to the waterfall as we went to sleep. After this experience I have decided that I definitely prefer camping in peace while taking in the nature around me.

Himare Hits the New York Times

The Albanian Riviera, a Frugal Paradise?

(above: link to nytimes article)

On June 29th, the New York Times came out with a travel article about the Albanian Riviera. This is exactly where I live and a wonderful description of the places to visit, the people you meet, and the food that is consumed. I could not have describe this area better myself.

The photos included in the article are some of the views that I encounter everyday. The restaurant the writer talks about is one of my favorites in Himare and the daughter of the owner is one of my students. It was an absolute joy to read about this man's positive experience and completely understand where he was coming from in many of his observations. Another thing I would like to point out is that I completely agree with his description of Vlore, the city north of Himare. It was spot on.

If you want another perspective of where I am living and what the culture is like, take a look at this article. It's definitely a small insight to what life is like in Himare during the summer months.